The 20th Ann. of October peak |
W.&E. Belukha, Akkem Wall.(Akkemlake). |
Akkem Wall from Karaturek pass. |
The mountainous country Altai
expands in the South Siberia, latitude between 48° and 56° North and
borders on the highlands of Kuznetskiy Altai, Salair, West Sayany, Tann-Ola and
Mongolian Altai. Therefore it is difficult to draw a clear boundary-line. The
basins of the rivers Biya, Abacan and the Shashpilskiy ridge are considered to
be a boundary between Altai and West Sayany. The Mountain Altai is connected to
Mongolian Altai through the Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola mountain-mass and The South Altai,
Sayalugem and Chihachev ridges in the South and South-West. The South-West
outskirts of Altai reaches the Zaisan lake. The biggest part of the Mountain
Altai belongs to Altai Territory and Mountainous Altai Republic, the rest
part-to Kazakhstan.
The south
part of the South Altai, Sarymskaty and Narymsk ridges expands to the West,
Saylugem and Chihacheva - to the East. There is a great number of ridges in this
mountainous country. They are South-Chuyskiy, Katunskiy, Holzunskiy as well as
Ivanovskiy, Ulbinskiy and Ubinskiy ridges, which are the biggest in Altai.
Beluha, the highest mountain of Siberia (4506 meters), is also situated here.
Another brunch of the ridges-North-Chuyskiy, Terectinskiy, Baschelakskiy -
expands to the North. The Cherginskiy and Anuyskiy ridges descend from the
Terectinskiy and Seminskiy ridges to the North. The third branch of ridges,
formed of Kurayskiy, Aygulakskiy and Anuyskiy ridges, expand almost
meridionally. The main parts of Altai are the Chulyshmanskiy upland region and
the Shapshalskiy ridge. The north-west slops are steep, south-west and south
ones are gently sloping.
Lots of
rivers with deep valleys and steep slops flow among ridges. The biggest of them
are Bashkausaand Chulyshman, which flow from the Telechki river Biya; the
tributaries of the Ob river: Chuya, Argut, Koksu as well as Katun, Charysh, Auy
and Peschanaya , Buchtarma-one of the river-heads of the Irtysh river. All the
Altai rivers belong to the altai-type rivers, they are supplied with the water
of the melted snow and rains. There is a great number of lakes, more than 6
thousand. Many of them, for example Telechkiy, Markakol, are situated in hollows
of tectonic stock. The most beautiful and picturesque Telechkiy lake is well
known for its steep woody and sometimes rocky banks. The biggest lake called
Markakol in Altai also famous for its wonderful banks and rich fauna and flora.
The climate of Mountain Altai is
cooler and wetter than in the neighbouring West-Siberia, it becomes cold and wet
in highlands, though sunny days here are much more than in Yalta, Batumi,
Sukhumi, Sochi.
The situation in
the middle part of the continent, different types of relief are the main reason
of the difference of climatic conditions and its contrast. The typical features
of the northern part are dry climate, warm summer and cool unsnowy winter. The
southern (mountainous) part is rather damp, summer is warm, winter is cold and
snowy. The east part of Altai is Chuyskaya steppe, the average temperature in
January is about -32° C, maximum one is -62° C. There is a temperature
between the temperatures in mountains and hollows. The temperature in the
mountains is warmer, summer is hot and dry. There is a big quantity of
precipitation in the north-west Altai, namely 700-1000 mm per year, in the
west area of Mountain Altai - 1500 mm, in highlands of the Katun
ridge-about 2000 mm. The most quantity of precipitation falls in summer and
autumn, and also in winter in west Altai. The cover of snow here reaches 2 or 3
meters. Winter in the west area is not snowy. At a height of 2000-2500 meters
there is a permafrost.
In summer
Mountain Altai is under the influence of arctic aerial masses, which become
warmer in West Siberia. They cause rainy and chilly weather in the mountains.
The weather in highlands in summer is rainy as well, there are many hazy days,
snowfalls. The most quantity of rain falls in the mountains in the first ten-day
period of August. In the middle of the third ten-day period of August snow
doesn’t melt at the altitude of 2600 meters or so and then it comes a
favourable weather here for a week or two. Generally speaking, a rapid
changes of hazy and damp into dry and warm weather are common things in
September and October. Winter comes in November.
When planning summer routes, you
shouldn’t forget, that July is the warmest and rainiest month of September.
Favourable days of this month are less then a half. The most beautiful time for
mountaineering is August and September, in spite of the weather being worse in
the passes and gorges than in July. As a rule precipitation falls in the
afternoon, that is why the first half of a day is the most favourable time for
mountaineering.
In the west area
highlands are snow-capped at the height of 300 meters, in the central part of
Altai - 2500-3000 meters and in the south slopes of ridges - 2600-3300 meters.
In the east snow covers mountains at the height of 3100-3500 meters (Chihachev
ridge).
There are more than 1500
glaciers known in highlands of Altai. Frozen area is more than 900 square
kilometers. The biggest glaciers are situated in valleys, there length reaches 8
or 11 kilometers.
The vegetation
is various. There is a belt of mountaineering mountainous steppes at the height
of 800-1500 meters, and mountainous taiga - 1200-2400 meters. Alpine glasslands
expand at the height of 500-3000 meters, and then it comes subnival and nival
zones. Boundaries of these belts are not clear.
Lack of forests, low grass and
bushes are typical for mountainous steppe vegetation. Wormwood, cereals grow on
the even lots, as in Karayskaya steppe, for example. As a whole steppe has
rather cheerless view of yellow-gray colors, and on the contrary, the vegetation
is rich near banks of the rivers and lakes.
Dark green belt of forest appear
at the boundary of steppes and foothills. There are not so many deciduous
forests in Mountain Altai. Mountain taiga consists of larches, Siberian pines,
pine-trees, fir-trees and silver firs. Deciduous taiga expands at the height
till 2000 meters. It is especially beautiful in spring, when larches are coming
out; and in autumn, when the sun is shining. As for pines, it grows in the upper
part of the forests. As a rule their branches make fantastic forms. Fir trees
and silver firs grow mainly on the north slops of the Katun ridge, pines and
larches are on the south.
There
are many different bushes: dog-rose, hawthorn, berbery, currents, meadow-sweet
and others. You can gather plenty of berries, such as bilberries, cowberries,
raspberries, strawberries and mushrooms.
Mountain tundra expands between
taiga and alpine glasslands. It is brushwood of short bushes such as polar birch
and different short willows. The polar birch (in local language it is called as
«chira» or «ernic») grows rather densely, it is not more than 40 or 60 cm
in height with beautiful low trunks and small, rough leaves. Therefore it is
difficult to go through these brushwoods.
Alpine and subalpine glasslands
expand on the irrigated slops or watered flat valleys and ridges. There are many
beautiful flowers of different bright colors such as forget-me-not, violet,
primrose and lots of others. Pink saxifrage, small veronica and dwarf willows,
which is several centimeters of height, grow in the cracks of rocks.
Different climate of Altai makes
great opportunity for trekking, backpacking, pass hopping, climbing and
mountaineering. This is the only region in the ex-USSR, where all kinds of
outdoor sports of different category of complication are represented here. Altai
is a mountainous area, that is why any types of routes concern to different
kinds of outdoor sports: in the summer- trekking, backpacking, hiking, pass
hopping, mountaineering and climbing, white water rafting and kayaking; in the
winter - skiing and mountaineering. But there is a tendency nowadays to unite
all (or at least a number of) kinds of outdoors. Trekking, pass hopping, hiking
and skiing include overcoming different obstacles, passes and gorges. These
obstacles are off the beaten track, brushwood, dog; river crossing, hiking in
taiga, ascending a mountain (the beginning point is not more than 1000 meters).
All these obstacles need special training to
overcome.
The central part of
Mountain Altai with Katun, North-Chuyskiy and South-Cuyskiy ridges are of great
interest for those who like trekking, pass hopping, mountaineering and climbing.
These ridges have alpine appearance: snow-capped summits, big steep slops with
passes and gorges, mountain streams.
The highest Katun ridge is named
after the river Katun. It has its sources in its south slops. The ridge expands
from the West to the East, its height reaches 4506 meters.
The west part of the ridge,
so-called Multinskiy, stretches for 50 kilometers. Three sides of it are
surrounded by the Katun river and other streams, which flow into the Multinskiy
lake.
Multinskiy ridge is about 3000 meters of height (the highest point is
3208 meters). It has many glaciers which feed numerous tributaries of the Katun
river. They flow from the ridge to the south, west and north. The west part of
Multinskiy ridge is easy to reach, it is not difficult to cross rivers and
passes.
To reach central and west
part of the ridge needs good equipment and special training. More than 50 passes
are well-known nowadays. The main passes are 1B and 2A category of difficulty.
The west part of Katun ridge is
famous for its picturesque Multinskiy, Osinovskiy, Hazinihskiy and Talmenje
lakes. This region is suitable for backpacking, trekking and hiking of 1-3
category in summer, and till 4 category of complication in winter.
Beginning with Verhniy and Nizniy
Kuragan the ridge raises and in 25 km it reaches its highest point (4506
meters). The biggest glaciers: Saposhnikova, Radzevicha, Brothers’ Tronovich,
Berelskie are situated here. The ridge has 3 branches to the North. There are
more than 170 glaciers concentrated in the central part of the ridge. They
occupy the area of about 150 square kilometers. Numerous tributaries of the
Katun and Berel rivers have its sources here. There are many beautiful
waterfalls, the most famous of them are on the rivers Tegeek, Tekelu, Kurkure,
B. Kollol, Kapchal. The biggest waterfalls reaches 40-60 meters of height.
Nowadays 25 passes are known in
the main watershed, some of them being the most difficult to cross (3B category
of difficulty). Inexperienced tourists can cross other passes which have 1A-1B
and 3A category of difficulty.
River valleys of the central part of the ridge have good paths, therefore it is
rather easy to approach passes. It makes easy to mountaineering and climbing any
kinds of category of complication.
The third part of freezing is
situated at the last length of road of the ridge. The max height of the ridge is
about 3883 meters. There are more then 70 glaciers here with the area of 40
square kilometers. This part of the ridge have passes of 1B-3A category of
difficulty. There are not so many paths and approaches to them are not very
good. As a rule the central part of the ridge is not used as an independent
tourists region.
Snow-line of the
Katun ridge raises from the west to the east from 2500 to 2900 meters, in the
north - from 2700, in the south- from 3100 meters. Glaciers descend till the
height of 2000-2200 meters. Northern slops are more populated. Artificial fuel
for hiking and even (in some cases) for backpasking and trekking is not needed.
It is advisable only in the Belukha region, as trekkers have to spend night at
the snowy place.
The most
comfortable approaches to the Katun ridge are in the north part. The Tungur,
Katanda, Multa villages are the traditional places of the beginning and the end
of routes. These places have bus communication through Ust-Koksa with
Gorno-Altaysk. Ust-Koksa has air communication with Gorno-Altaysk, Biysk and
Barnaul (subject for pre-checking, though). A new road connects Ust-Koksa with
Leninogorsk. It is possible to get there from Kazakhstan and from the Argut
valley.
The North-Chuyskiy ridge
is situated to the north of the Katun ridge, behind the Argut river. It
stretches from north-west to south-east for 140 kilometers. Valleys of the
Karagem and Chugan-Usy rivers are south and south-east boundaries of the region.
Bish-Iirdy is the highest summit of the ridge. The main glaciers are also
concentrated here. The average height of the ridge is about 3600 meters, several
summits reach the height of 4000 meters (Maashi-bashi is 4173 meters, Actru is
4075 meters).
Passes of the ridge
are different, but one thing is similar: north and north-west slops are steep.
They have all category of difficulty, the most difficult passes to cross are
snow-capped. The snow-line is at a height of 2900 meters in the north slops and
3100 in the south slops.
The
orography of the ridge is complicated, it’s several parallel ridges with similar
direction of west-east. Moutaineers name them as Chuyskiy, Shavlinskiy,
Karagemskiy. The Cuyskiy ridge stretches between the Chuya and Shavly rivers for
60 kilometers. Its height increases from west to east, the highest point being
2925 meters. The paths cross many valleys of rivers and watershed which is
swamped in some places.
The
Shavlinskiy ridge stretches between valleys of the Shavly and Ungura rivers. Its
height is about 2500 meters near Argut, and it increases to west. Forest grow
only in the valleys of rivers. The most difficult passes are in west part of the
ridge, they round the Shavlinsky mountain lakes.
The average height of the
Karagemskiy ridge is about 3400 meters. It is also a watershed of the Ungura and
Karagem rivers. The ridge is covered by little glaciers.
All the ridges come together not
far from the Skazka (The Tale) and Krasavitza (The Beauty) summits which are
situated near the sources of the Shavla river. The ridge is frozen at the upper
reaches of the Aktru, Maashey, Shavla and Karagem.
The most beautiful summit called
«Dome of three lakes» is situated in the east of the ridge. It has a big
glacier.
The most comfortable way
to get it is Chuysky road. Tourists start their hiking from the Beliy Bom,
Chibit, Men, Kurae, Kysyl-Man villages. Helicopters (MI-8) fly from
Gorno-Altaisk to the Aktaisk village (also subject to confirm).
The most popular trekking routes
are in the North-Chuysk ridge, they begin trekking from this place and finish in
the Chuysky-road. Routes including the North-Chuysky ridges or/and the region of
the Belukha river and crossing of the river Argut are very popular nowadays.
Such routes are difficult to pass therefore special training is needed here.
The south chain of Central Altai
is limited in the east by the South-Chuysky ridge. It is separated from the east
part of the Katun ridge by Argut, from the North-Chuysky ridge- by the valley of
Karagem, from the south- by the valley of the Jazator river and from the East-
by the river Chuya and its tributaries.
The main watershed ridge
stretches from the West to the East for 120 kilometers. The rivers Oshty-Airy,
Kara-Airy, Kalynagach and others have their sources here in the ridge. The
rivers flow to the North into Chuya . The Ongulu, Bara, Mangot rivers with
its tributories flow in the south slops of the ridge.
The central part of the ridge
from the Kara-Airy to Elangash rivers is covered with ice. Its height reaches
3700 meters in some places. The highest summits are Iiktu (3936 meters) and
Tymom (3960 meters). The main glaciers are Kara-Airy, Taldurinskiy, Sofiysky,
Yadrincheva. There are more than 220 glaciers here, which are concentrated
mainly in the north slops. The relief becomes more flat to the east part of the
ridge.
The most passes have 1B
and 2A, some of them have 2B and 3A category of difficulty. They are situated
basically in the main ridge and in its north part.
The typical features of the ridge
are firstly, the south slops are steeper than the north ones. Secondly, the
south slops are less covered with ice than the north ones. Thirdly, the ridge is
poor of wooden vegetation, it is concentrated only in the valleys of the
Jazator, Karagem, Taldury and Chagan-Uzun rivers. At last, the climate of the
region is dryer and more contrasting than in the Katun and North-Chuiskiy
ridges.
The ridge is snow-capped
at a height of 2900-3100 meters, in the south slops- by 100-150 meters higher.
The most comfortable way to
get this region is from the Chuysky road. The beginning and the end places of
trekking, backpacking and hiking may be the Kosh-Agach (it has air communication
with Gorno-Altaisk), Muhor-Taphata, Chagan-Usun, Kyzyl-Many villages (special
permits to frontier zone are needed).
The most popular trekking and pass
hopping routes passes through the Sough-Chuysk and North-Chuysk ridges and
sometimes through the South-Chuyskiy and Katun ridges.
Akkem Wall and upper Akkem stream |
Belukha peaks from S. (left - E.Belukha, right - W.Belukha). |
The lake of the dreams... |
Upper part of Berel' river. |
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